iSpindel Assembly

Published by Joey Joe Joe Jr on

iSpindel parts

Click this link to get to The main iSpindel webpage. It includes a shopping list, assembly instructions, a guide on how to load the firmware, calibration instructions, and more!

Shopping List

Why People Remove the Diode on the D1 Mini

If you don’t remove the diode from the D1 mini you could end up in trouble. When you plug in the D1 mini you are also sending 5 volts to the D1 mini’s VCC which is attached to the battery. That battery isn’t meant to handle 5 volts so this a bad thing and if left unchecked could start a fire. Powering the battery with 5 volts can only happen: 1) if the battery is present and 2) if the power switch for the iSpindel is at the on position, and 3) if the diode still exists on the D1. It looks like the solution is to remove the D1 mini’s diode and then the battery can’t get overloaded. The only ‘downside’ is that you’ll need a fully charged battery present before you flash the D1 mini’s firmware via USB cable. I sincerely recommend removing the D1 mini’s diode as a safety precaution. I will update my assembly instructions to include the removal of the D1 mini’s diode in the future.

Wemos D1 Mini – Follow the leftmost trace to the diode.


IZOKEE D1 Mini – Follow the leftmost trace to the diode.

The diode on the Wemos D1 mini v3 in the red square above. It is labeled “SL”. In some cases, the label may be different or the diode may be in a different spot depending on the versions of the board.

I’ve been told that the USB side should be installed slightly elevated when using IZOKEE D1 Mini since the USB sits directly on The Jeffrey PCB if you don’t install the USB slightly elevated you will not be able to plug in the USB after assembly. I would recommend flashing the IZOKEE D1 Mini before assembly to try and sidestep this issue but I would recommend installing the USB side of the IZOKEE slightly elevated in case you need access to the USB port after assembly. Once the iSpindel is fully assembled and flashed you can update the firmware ‘over the air’.

Joey Joe Joe Jr

I was born on a pirate ship off the coast of Peru where I was given a traditional Aztec upbringing, during which I excelled in the arts of sciences. At age seven my parents accidentally murdered each other in a freak fencing accident. Heartbroken I joined the tribe of Omaha, where I trained under the legendary Vin Diesel. At age eighteen, after a failed Fear Factor audition, I set out for a berry plantation roughly four kilometers south of Albuquerque. I currently reside at Ram Ranch which really rocks!


Per Ole Gabrielsen · March 25, 2020 at 3:36 AM

Love your PCB 😀 Just ordered 10 of them. I advise others to flash the D1 mini before the solder it all together. What do you think of that?

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · March 31, 2020 at 8:40 AM

    I’ve never done it that way but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Have you tried it from parts to the final assembly?

      Per Ole Gabrielsen · March 31, 2020 at 8:44 AM

      Yes, it work like a charm 👍

        Joey Joe Joe Jr · March 31, 2020 at 8:48 AM


Per Ole Gabrielsen · March 25, 2020 at 4:09 AM

PS! And if you remove that diode, it is not possible to flash before assembly the lot!

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · March 31, 2020 at 8:41 AM

    No, the D1 won’t be able to be powered from the USB if the diode is missing. You would have to find another way the D1 if the diode is missing.

Francois Lalonde · April 2, 2020 at 6:13 AM

Received my PCB yesterday! They look great… can’t wait for the parts to arrive and start the build.

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · April 2, 2020 at 10:10 AM


Evelyn Johnston · April 5, 2020 at 7:45 PM

Thanks for the useful info.

claudio · April 11, 2020 at 10:04 AM

Hi, Wemos D1 Mini V3.0.0 or V3.1.0?

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · April 13, 2020 at 11:53 AM

    Either should be fine. The concern I have is the physical layout of the D1 mini board. Both versions look like they have the same layout.

    For example, the PCB wasn’t designed for a D1 mini with the USB port on the bottom, or for a D1 mini with an external aerial.

Kevin · May 12, 2020 at 11:55 AM

It appears that the Wemos D1 linked in the parts list has long shipping time right now (not arriving for over a month and a half). Are other D1 ESP8266 boards compatible with the Jeffery 2.0?

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · May 13, 2020 at 9:02 AM

    Hi Kevin,

    I am not aware of any other board that could be substituted. Sorry.

Per Ole Gabrielsen · May 13, 2020 at 9:37 AM

Hi Kevin!

You can use D1 ESP8266 as an substitute, but it is heavier an will weigh down the iSpindel more than the “normal” one do.

best reg.

Per Ole

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · May 13, 2020 at 9:40 AM

    Does the D1 ESP8266 have the same pinout and will it fit in the petling? This is the larger version of the D1 mini right?

Matt · May 19, 2020 at 7:24 PM

I’ve followed your instruction but I can’t get the tilt to work. I’ve tried multiple different IMU sensors.
DO you have a tip for that or do you know to debug it further so I can determine if it is reporting the wrong address (like other sites suggest)

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · May 20, 2020 at 11:10 AM

    Have you hooked up the D1 mini to a serial monitor? What does it say? Do you get any errors?

Matt · May 22, 2020 at 6:56 PM

I’ve got the following output from the putty but it doesn’t do anything from there. I’m assuming “Acc Test Connection ERROR!” is my problem but that appears on all my IMU. Any ideas?

FW 6.2.0
Worker run!
mounting FS… mounted!
reading config file
parsed config:
{“Name”:”iSpindel001″,”Token”:””,”Sleep”:1,”Server”:””,”API”:3,”Port”:80,”Channe l”:0,”URI”:””,”DB”:”ispindel”,”Username”:””,”Password”:””,”Job”:”ispindel”,”Inst ance”:”000″,”Vfact”:191.8,”TS”:0,”OWpin”:12,”POLY”:”-0.00031*tilt^2+0.557*tilt-1 4.054″,”SSID”:””,”PSK”:””,”Offset “:[0,0,0,0,0,0]}
Acc Test Connection ERROR!
offsets not available
Boot-Mode: Deep-Sleep Wake

woken from deepsleep, normal mode

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · May 23, 2020 at 10:42 AM

    I searched that error message in the iSpindel code then found the below issue in Github. Yeah, it looks like that error comes from the ACCelerometer test. So something is wrong with the gyro or something is going wrong between the gyro and D1 mini. Can you get to the iSpindel Info page? Do you also have 0 tilt like the guy in the link below? If you have a multimeter you can take the battery out of the iSpindel and check the continuity between the gyro and D1 to see if it’s a bad solder of some kind of issue with the PCB. It could also be a bad gyro. I don’t see any other errors pointing to any other issue.

Gregory Fleming · May 26, 2020 at 9:02 AM

You made me a happy reader, thanks…

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · May 26, 2020 at 11:05 AM

    My pleasure. Take care and be safe Gregory.

Martin Tauson · June 10, 2020 at 2:55 AM

Love your guide, thank you so much. I am new to eletronics but have decided to give this a try. First issue to find all parts to order to Sweden. Will let you know if you guide is newbie proof 😀

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · June 10, 2020 at 1:04 PM

    Good luck! Let me know how it goes 🙂

Les · June 25, 2020 at 1:29 PM

I’ve just built one of these up.

Set up and calibration went fine.

however, It will only send one update (to brewfather/ubidots) ont the reset and then nothing.
If I hit the reset button it wakes and sends data again.
It doesn’t seem to want to wake its self from sleep (the blue led on the d1 mni doesn’t come on/flash..

Any Ideas?


    Joey Joe Joe Jr · June 26, 2020 at 2:08 PM

    What does the serial monitor say from the D1 mini? Do you know how to do that? I’ve been thinking of making a video about how to view the serial monitor. You can use something like Putty to connect via a computer.

Michael · July 20, 2020 at 6:45 PM

Joey, you mentioned on a podcast that you might be putting together part kits for the iSpindle. Any luck with that? I would rather not order a whole bunch of parts I can’t use for anything else.

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · July 21, 2020 at 4:02 PM

    Unfortunately, no. I personally don’t have the room or the time to build, store, package, and ship the kits. The other issue is the nature of electric components, by which I mean a lot of components are not tested during manufacturing, and hence some will be delivered DOA. There are lots of counterfeit and low-quality components out there. I just don’t have the bandwidth to accommodate the effort required for the kits. Multiple people from different parts of the world have come forward asking to collaborate on kits. I have gotten pretty far with a few of them. They have all either disappeared or bought the wrong parts without getting samples first for testing. As it turns out, building kits and selling them is a pretty major undertaking with a fair amount of risk involved for the person making them. On top of all that, the kit would likely cost more per iSpindel than just buying the parts directly from China as the consumer would need to pay for shipping twice (once from the supplier of the components, and again from the kit shipper). Hopefully, someone in the future will be able to assist with the kits. If you want to keep costs down, I would try and get people to pool enough money to purchase enough material to make at least 5 iSpindels. The more you build the cheaper they are.

    Good luck and thanks for your support!


    Joey Joe Joe Jr.

Michael · July 27, 2020 at 10:01 AM

Thanks Joey. Guess I will have a few to play with 🙂

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · July 28, 2020 at 11:29 AM

    Having some extra iSpindels isn’t such a bad thing!

Moe Szyslak · August 22, 2020 at 6:48 PM

That’s the worst name I’ve ever heard.

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · August 29, 2020 at 8:45 AM


    Runs out of Moe’s… Hahaha

Matthew · September 3, 2020 at 12:13 PM

Ordering parts. Is everything still relevant?

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · September 8, 2020 at 6:14 PM

    Yes, still relevant. Let me know if you have any questions.

Mikkel Christiansen · September 19, 2020 at 3:20 PM

I’ve put all the parts together, but when run the nodemcu it already shows “COM3, COM4 and COM5” in COM port without having anything connected with usb to the computer. When I plug in the Ispindle nothing changes?
Is the problem the usb-cable, have tryed tree different kind, but maybe they are all charging cables? and not data cables.
Would really appreciate if you could help me out 🙂

    Joey Joe Joe Jr · September 21, 2020 at 9:38 AM

    If you have a cell phone that has the same USB port you can try the cable on the phone and plug it into a computer. If the computer recognizes it, you have yourself a data cable. I’ll be releasing a serial monitor video this week that talks about how to find the correct COM port. Be careful that you don’t flash the wrong device.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *